Wednesday, 19 September 2018

Burberry: Kingdom SS'19 by Ricardo Tisci...

Hello lovelies!

Kingdom SS'19 by Ricardo Tisci

Image credit: taken from Harper's Bazaar Singapore (here)

September 17th, 2018, the Monday of the Spring/Summer shows at London Fashion Week and the one that I've been waiting for, Ricardo Tisci's new vision for Burberry was finally revealed.  During the build up to the show, we'd been given some tasters.  First there was the new branding and logo, which sent mixed messages about the direction that the house might take.  Was this to be a complete departure from Burberry's heritage?

Image credit here

When I first saw it I wasn't sure, but I could imagine it looking beautiful in the lining of a bag, or as a silk scarf.  Then there was the launch of #theBseries and a first peek into Tisci's new look Burberry; pieces launched on Instagram that could bought for a short space of time before, during and just after the runway show.  This was really cleverly done, as the looks were quite cool and street, yet the show for the majority was a stark contrast to this.

Image credit: Burberry instagram

During the build up I was apprehensive.  I'd heard so many great things about Ricardo Tisci and how he transformed Givenchy, but I was worried that with a complete break from the past, Burberry just wouldn't feel like Burberry anymore.  The brand has always been about history and heritage and although it's always been quite forward thinking (the first to adopt see now, buy now under Bailey), it's always managed to preserve it's iconic history whilst still being quite fresh.  To imagine a world without the Burberry trench, or the iconic check was a little daunting.  However, I need not have worried, because it seems that Tisci completely understands the beauty in Burberry's history too.

Kingdom, SS'19, almost carries on from where Christopher Bailey left off in celebrating eclecticism and everything that encompasses Britishness.  

"...This Show is a celebration of the cultures, traditions and the codes of this historic fashion house and of the eclecticism that makes up the beautifully diverse United Kingdom"-Ricardo Tisci

The first part of the show focused on refined dressing, showcasing some of the amazing tailoring that the house is best known and loved for.  The Womenswear was particularly exquisite; the new logo was delicately patterned onto silk head scarves, wrapped around the neatly coiffed hair of the models and the iconic trench coat colour greatly influenced the colour palette throughout.  The nova check was subtly reimagined too, and floated along the runway on silk shirts and blouses.  Think Céline and Hermès, elegant Parisian chic; business dress never looked so glamourous.  I particularly loved the bags that featured the new logo as a gold clasp (who'd have thought I'd have been so easily converted!)

Image credit here

Bag goals! (Image credit here)

The menswear that followed was pretty formal too, and although it wasn't groundbreaking, it was certainly chic.  There were some rather unusual accessories, such as an umbrella on a chain belt which looked a little out of place at least in this section but nevertheless, although a little underwhelming in the shadow of the beautiful womenswear, it certainly worked.

Image credit here

Then, as if out of nowhere, there was a punk revolution.  In homage to some of the best fashion moments in British history and possibly a tip of the hat to Vivienne Westwood who is set to collaborate with Tisci on a small collection later in the year, the show dynamic completely changed.  Think trench coats with bondage-style straps, flat beetle-crusher style shoes and zips and leather, this was a more daring edge to Burberry, and weirdly it worked!  Inspiration taken from an eclectic and diverse London, Tisci showed his love for our beautiful capital city by making his show mirror its diversity of styles and trends.  And there was still some amazing and elegant tailoring to be seen in this part of the show too; music to my ears!

Image credit here

Image credit here

The verdict...

For a debut collection, Tisci ticked all of the boxes with Kingdom.  By creating excitement in the build up and then by sending an array of styles down the runway, he's certainly shown what he's capable of as a designer and that the future is certainly bright for Burberry.  Womenswear was the outright winner for me, the detail in each piece was truly exceptional and I can't wait to see them in the flesh when they hit our stores early next year (now that Tisci has traded Bailey's 'see now, buy now' for the more traditional seasonal fashion model).  Here's to some more amazing collections in the future...I better start saving!!

Thanks for reading,

Until next time,

Kay xx


(Disclaimer: I do not own the rights to any of these images, they are credited to their owners)


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